Hello everyone!
I wanted to share my joy – I finally finished my project on organizing the storage of figures!
A couple of years ago, I was looking for a convenient and compact way to store miniatures for TTRPG. At that time, I did not find a single post on Reddit that was detailed enough and suitable for the intended storage space, but I was greatly inspired by the guide from “The Alphastream Game Design Blog” (the link will be in the comments). Over time, I worked out and improved my system, solving the main remaining problem – putting the figures back in place after the session.
I used the method of transparent boxes for storage. Links to the specific boxes that I use will be in the comments. I have two sizes of boxes – the smaller one comfortably accommodates tiny, small and medium sizes, and the larger one accommodates tall&wide medium size figurines, large and even some huge ones with smaller diameter bases. To store tall&wide huge and gargantuan figures, I use a sturdy box from the board game Divinity Original Sin (an excellent game, by the way). That box is kinda chaotic so I won’t include a photo of that in the post, but I may add it to the comments if anybody will be curious about it.
In order to determine how many boxes I needed the first time, I counted the number of figures and roughly estimated how many of them would fit in which boxes. And then I ordered from Amazon with a reserve of 2-3 boxes for each type. There are never too many boxes, because sooner or later you will inevitably acquire some more miniatures one way or another. But later it is easier to determine how many boxes you need to order, because you can check whether your new figures fit into the cells of the old boxes.
My collection of miniatures includes the Kickstarter Set (code KS), Massive Darkness 1 and 2 board games (MD1 and MD2 respectively), the Witcher board game with expansions (Witcher), Divinity Original Sin board game (DOS) and “Others”, which were received as a gift, or bought separately in small sets and do not belong to any large collection.
When the boxes are bought and the miniatures are glued to their stands, you can start sorting them by type. I prefer to put the numbered figures as close to the numbering order as possible, but so that it is still aesthetically pleasing. But figures without a number are a whole project. The Witcher, MD1 and MD2 figures already had numbers right on their stands, so this makes things much easier. I numbered the KS figures myself with a white marker (after I laid them out in the boxes! believe me, you’ll be rearranging them a lot before you’ll be happy with it), assigning the same figures one number (each of the 5 gnolls is, for example, No. 24).
I divided the figures from the KS into groups: animals, humanoids (with repetitions), heroes (1 figure each without repetitions), undead, monsters made of colored material, humanoid monsters, flying monsters, residual monsters. Feel free to leave empty spaces in the boxes, as they can easily be supplemented with the “other” category later.
Large, tall large and huge figurines in the larger box.
After you are happy with the logical arrangement of the figurines in your boxes, number the figurines and their cells. Numbering the cells is incredibly helpful in putting the figurines in place after a long session, turning the work of thought into mechanical labor.
I started numbering my KS collection from 300, because it was confusing enough to have every other collection start with 1. I’m glad that their numbers are at least printed with a different font for each collection.
After these machinations, I wrote the types of figurines stored in this box and the numbers for each type on the lid of each box with a white erasable marker. That helps you to navigate easily when you’re going through the boxes and not to look at the side labels of an open box. I also duplicated these notes on stickers (included with the boxes), each collection on a separate sticker so that it would not be too crowded. For the stickers I used a CD/DVD thin marker. All the markers I used are removable with a drop of nail polish remover, but if you can’t stand the smell you can always try dish soap, or just slap a new sticker on the box.
I used to number the boxes themselves, but I came to the conclusion that it was useless since it didn’t contribute towards the effectiveness of the storage system.
If you want to go further, and Sheldonize make this super uniform and OCD friendly (as I tried :D) you can pay attention to keep labels of the same group on the same side of the box. For example the group label “Other” appears only on the left side of the box. The center is dedicated to prevailing group in the particular box. The MD1 label should be always on the left of MD2 label, because it’s logical to search for respective collections from left to right. Also you can try and keep all the figurines “facing” the same way. For example if several figures in the box lie horizontally – try keep all bases on the left (or right, whatever) and heads/wings/weapon/ etc on the other side. I tried to keep it uniform at least for each one box. It’s almost impossible to keep all the boxes uniform, because larger figurines that require you to remove dividers are sometimes weirdly shaped, and just won’t fit laying smearing left, but will be ok smearing right.
I hope someone will find this useful! Or it will give them a long-awaited kick in organizing their miniatures from the chaos of one box.
submitted by /u/NerdyRedPanda13
[link] [comments]
r/DnD Hello everyone! I wanted to share my joy – I finally finished my project on organizing the storage of figures! A couple of years ago, I was looking for a convenient and compact way to store miniatures for TTRPG. At that time, I did not find a single post on Reddit that was detailed enough and suitable for the intended storage space, but I was greatly inspired by the guide from “The Alphastream Game Design Blog” (the link will be in the comments). Over time, I worked out and improved my system, solving the main remaining problem – putting the figures back in place after the session. I used the method of transparent boxes for storage. Links to the specific boxes that I use will be in the comments. I have two sizes of boxes – the smaller one comfortably accommodates tiny, small and medium sizes, and the larger one accommodates tall&wide medium size figurines, large and even some huge ones with smaller diameter bases. To store tall&wide huge and gargantuan figures, I use a sturdy box from the board game Divinity Original Sin (an excellent game, by the way). That box is kinda chaotic so I won’t include a photo of that in the post, but I may add it to the comments if anybody will be curious about it. Smaller box dimensions. Larger box dimensions. In order to determine how many boxes I needed the first time, I counted the number of figures and roughly estimated how many of them would fit in which boxes. And then I ordered from Amazon with a reserve of 2-3 boxes for each type. There are never too many boxes, because sooner or later you will inevitably acquire some more miniatures one way or another. But later it is easier to determine how many boxes you need to order, because you can check whether your new figures fit into the cells of the old boxes. My collection of miniatures includes the Kickstarter Set (code KS), Massive Darkness 1 and 2 board games (MD1 and MD2 respectively), the Witcher board game with expansions (Witcher), Divinity Original Sin board game (DOS) and “Others”, which were received as a gift, or bought separately in small sets and do not belong to any large collection. Final storage view. When the boxes are bought and the miniatures are glued to their stands, you can start sorting them by type. I prefer to put the numbered figures as close to the numbering order as possible, but so that it is still aesthetically pleasing. But figures without a number are a whole project. The Witcher, MD1 and MD2 figures already had numbers right on their stands, so this makes things much easier. I numbered the KS figures myself with a white marker (after I laid them out in the boxes! believe me, you’ll be rearranging them a lot before you’ll be happy with it), assigning the same figures one number (each of the 5 gnolls is, for example, No. 24). I divided the figures from the KS into groups: animals, humanoids (with repetitions), heroes (1 figure each without repetitions), undead, monsters made of colored material, humanoid monsters, flying monsters, residual monsters. Feel free to leave empty spaces in the boxes, as they can easily be supplemented with the “other” category later. “Kickstarter humanoid monsters + other+ wtf” smaller box, 305-308+311 are currently prepped for the next session. Tall&wide medium figurines in the smaller box. Some dividers are removed. Black line is separating collections MD1, MD2 and Other. Tall&wide medium and large figurines in a larger box. Similar figurines occupy same compartment to maximize space efficiency. Large, tall large and huge figurines in the larger box. After you are happy with the logical arrangement of the figurines in your boxes, number the figurines and their cells. Numbering the cells is incredibly helpful in putting the figurines in place after a long session, turning the work of thought into mechanical labor. I started numbering my KS collection from 300, because it was confusing enough to have every other collection start with 1. I’m glad that their numbers are at least printed with a different font for each collection. MD1 figurine that has number on it’s base and a manually numbered figurine from Other collection in their numbered compartments. After these machinations, I wrote the types of figurines stored in this box and the numbers for each type on the lid of each box with a white erasable marker. That helps you to navigate easily when you’re going through the boxes and not to look at the side labels of an open box. I also duplicated these notes on stickers (included with the boxes), each collection on a separate sticker so that it would not be too crowded. For the stickers I used a CD/DVD thin marker. All the markers I used are removable with a drop of nail polish remover, but if you can’t stand the smell you can always try dish soap, or just slap a new sticker on the box. Labeled smaller box. I used to number the boxes themselves, but I came to the conclusion that it was useless since it didn’t contribute towards the effectiveness of the storage system. If you want to go further, and Sheldonize make this super uniform and OCD friendly (as I tried :D) you can pay attention to keep labels of the same group on the same side of the box. For example the group label “Other” appears only on the left side of the box. The center is dedicated to prevailing group in the particular box. The MD1 label should be always on the left of MD2 label, because it’s logical to search for respective collections from left to right. Also you can try and keep all the figurines “facing” the same way. For example if several figures in the box lie horizontally – try keep all bases on the left (or right, whatever) and heads/wings/weapon/ etc on the other side. I tried to keep it uniform at least for each one box. It’s almost impossible to keep all the boxes uniform, because larger figurines that require you to remove dividers are sometimes weirdly shaped, and just won’t fit laying smearing left, but will be ok smearing right. I hope someone will find this useful! Or it will give them a long-awaited kick in organizing their miniatures from the chaos of one box. submitted by /u/NerdyRedPanda13 [link] [comments]
Hello everyone!
I wanted to share my joy – I finally finished my project on organizing the storage of figures!
A couple of years ago, I was looking for a convenient and compact way to store miniatures for TTRPG. At that time, I did not find a single post on Reddit that was detailed enough and suitable for the intended storage space, but I was greatly inspired by the guide from “The Alphastream Game Design Blog” (the link will be in the comments). Over time, I worked out and improved my system, solving the main remaining problem – putting the figures back in place after the session.
I used the method of transparent boxes for storage. Links to the specific boxes that I use will be in the comments. I have two sizes of boxes – the smaller one comfortably accommodates tiny, small and medium sizes, and the larger one accommodates tall&wide medium size figurines, large and even some huge ones with smaller diameter bases. To store tall&wide huge and gargantuan figures, I use a sturdy box from the board game Divinity Original Sin (an excellent game, by the way). That box is kinda chaotic so I won’t include a photo of that in the post, but I may add it to the comments if anybody will be curious about it.
In order to determine how many boxes I needed the first time, I counted the number of figures and roughly estimated how many of them would fit in which boxes. And then I ordered from Amazon with a reserve of 2-3 boxes for each type. There are never too many boxes, because sooner or later you will inevitably acquire some more miniatures one way or another. But later it is easier to determine how many boxes you need to order, because you can check whether your new figures fit into the cells of the old boxes.
My collection of miniatures includes the Kickstarter Set (code KS), Massive Darkness 1 and 2 board games (MD1 and MD2 respectively), the Witcher board game with expansions (Witcher), Divinity Original Sin board game (DOS) and “Others”, which were received as a gift, or bought separately in small sets and do not belong to any large collection.
When the boxes are bought and the miniatures are glued to their stands, you can start sorting them by type. I prefer to put the numbered figures as close to the numbering order as possible, but so that it is still aesthetically pleasing. But figures without a number are a whole project. The Witcher, MD1 and MD2 figures already had numbers right on their stands, so this makes things much easier. I numbered the KS figures myself with a white marker (after I laid them out in the boxes! believe me, you’ll be rearranging them a lot before you’ll be happy with it), assigning the same figures one number (each of the 5 gnolls is, for example, No. 24).
I divided the figures from the KS into groups: animals, humanoids (with repetitions), heroes (1 figure each without repetitions), undead, monsters made of colored material, humanoid monsters, flying monsters, residual monsters. Feel free to leave empty spaces in the boxes, as they can easily be supplemented with the “other” category later.
Large, tall large and huge figurines in the larger box.
After you are happy with the logical arrangement of the figurines in your boxes, number the figurines and their cells. Numbering the cells is incredibly helpful in putting the figurines in place after a long session, turning the work of thought into mechanical labor.
I started numbering my KS collection from 300, because it was confusing enough to have every other collection start with 1. I’m glad that their numbers are at least printed with a different font for each collection.
After these machinations, I wrote the types of figurines stored in this box and the numbers for each type on the lid of each box with a white erasable marker. That helps you to navigate easily when you’re going through the boxes and not to look at the side labels of an open box. I also duplicated these notes on stickers (included with the boxes), each collection on a separate sticker so that it would not be too crowded. For the stickers I used a CD/DVD thin marker. All the markers I used are removable with a drop of nail polish remover, but if you can’t stand the smell you can always try dish soap, or just slap a new sticker on the box.
I used to number the boxes themselves, but I came to the conclusion that it was useless since it didn’t contribute towards the effectiveness of the storage system.
If you want to go further, and Sheldonize make this super uniform and OCD friendly (as I tried :D) you can pay attention to keep labels of the same group on the same side of the box. For example the group label “Other” appears only on the left side of the box. The center is dedicated to prevailing group in the particular box. The MD1 label should be always on the left of MD2 label, because it’s logical to search for respective collections from left to right. Also you can try and keep all the figurines “facing” the same way. For example if several figures in the box lie horizontally – try keep all bases on the left (or right, whatever) and heads/wings/weapon/ etc on the other side. I tried to keep it uniform at least for each one box. It’s almost impossible to keep all the boxes uniform, because larger figurines that require you to remove dividers are sometimes weirdly shaped, and just won’t fit laying smearing left, but will be ok smearing right.
I hope someone will find this useful! Or it will give them a long-awaited kick in organizing their miniatures from the chaos of one box.
submitted by /u/NerdyRedPanda13
[link] [comments]